"Don’t for one moment think that the Revolution is unaware of what you are all doing"
"Remember that the Revolution is everywhere and it has it’s eyes wide open"
A welcoming committee from the hospital had arrived to meet us and they helped to carry our bags to the waiting transport. This spared us of the attention of the airport taxi drivers who we had been warned were always eager to relieve Westerners of valuable American dollar bills. There was a very active black market in Baghdad with the unofficial rate of exchange worth about thirteen times the official one. One of the party, a rather jovial fellow in his mid twenties shook hands with me and said,
"Hi, I’m Dermot, one of the Cardiology Registrars"
"And this is Peter, one of the Medical SHO’s …at least that’s what we call him when we can get him up in the morning"
"Hi Peter, I didn’t even know you were out here" I said, recognising an old friend from home.
"Are you still playing any guitar?"
"I sure am, and there’s a party tonight and we'll let her rip" he said.
We made our way across the airport terminal exit to where the hospital jeeps had been parked. The night air was still hot and it clung to my skin like a invisible cloth. A light breeze got up and it carried the shrill sound of some Iraqi music from a nearby car radio. Above us a brilliant crescent moon hung sideways in a deep rose sky, bathing us in its light as we made our way across the complex. The sweet smell of roasting chestnuts wafted from a nearby vendor's stall. Another hawker exhibited piles of men's shirts on the pavement in neat rows, next to a display of cheap watches. Peter lifted one of the watches and showed me the image of Saddam smiling from between the moving hands.
"Big ERIC gets his face everywhere!" he laughed
"By the way, that's what the ex-Pats call him amongst themselves,.. it's short for Eternal Ruler In Command!"
He went on to tell me that the Mukhaharat, or secret police were also everywhere, continually listening to conversations and phone calls and it was preferable to talk in code about anything that related to the Ba'ath regime or its policies.I then turned to Peter and asked.
"Do you know yet what job will I be doing at the hospital?"
"I hear they’re going to put you into Staff Health!" he repied.
"What's it like?" I asked inquisitively
"Brilliant!, a real doss job... but you’ll probably have every waster in the hospital coming looking to you for a day off"
"But you'll get the use of your own Nissan Patrol"
"It's shared between yourself and Patrica, the Staff Health nurse, but we’re wasting valuable drinking time looking at watches"
An unshaven taxi-driver approached us and asked us if we needed a fare back to the city. I noticed his slight limp and I assumed it was an old war injury, his taxi business possibly a reward for services rendered in the last war. Here was a man who possibly witnessed the sight of the lowly Iranian Basji hurling themselves upon the barbed wire defences of the Iraqi army. Maybe he had shot at them, knowing that over their dead bodies would come hordes of infantry all willing to die to receive eternal martyrdom. I knew I would probably see many more limping taxi drivers before I left Iraq. I stopped daydreaming and looked back again at the modern airport complex. In the distance I could see the green and white jeeps bearing the 'Ibn Al-Bitar' insignia and judging by the number of irate coachdrivers and soldiers surrounding the vehicles, I could see that it had parked right in the middle of one of the ranks.
"Another brilliant bit of parking,Dermot!" said Peter.
"Have you seen the new circular on parking that was sent round today?" he continued.
"I've still got one on me, I must show it to Patrick!"
It read as follows…
"To all staff, Ibn Al Bitar Hospital
A drive to tighten up the traffic regulations is taking place, in particular in Basra and also in some parts of Baghdad. A directive has been given to apply the maximum penalty for illegal parking, breaking of speed limits, driving through the red light and reckless driving. The penalties for Expatriates could amount to confiscation of the vehicle and a ban on re-entry to Iraq. Such offences for Iraqi staff could result in imprisonment for a year. Personnel using vehicles, particularly for social purposes are reminded of their responsibility in the event of the vehicle being confiscated, stolen or damaged.
Hospital Administrator".
"I think a year in the slammer is slightly over the top for parking on a double yellow line" I laughed.
"Be very careful where you park your jeep, Patrick!"..
"The Iraqi's arrested your last casualty nurse and her friend in it a few months ago outside the Al Iskandria military complex ..the rumour in Baghdad is that they probably will get the death sentence"
